“Man is but a traveler without origin, so don't ask where home lies. Contentment is everywhere, for the world is full of floral fragrance,” wrote the renowned scholar Lin Yutang, who was born in Pinghe County, Zhangzhou City, Fujian Province, China.
In his beautiful hometown, there is an enchanting Oolong tea known as Baiya Qilan. It is a rare and precious variety of Oolong tea and a product protected by a national geographical indication, with a very poetic name.
Baiya Qilan originated in Pengxi Village, Pinghe County, Zhangzhou, Fujian Province. It is named for its fresh leaves that have white downy tips and the unique orchid aroma of the finished tea. It is one of the five famous teas in Fujian Province alongside Anxi Tieguanyin, Wuyi Rock Tea, Minbei Shuixian, and Yongchun Foshou.
The main producing areas of Baiya Qilan are now located in the Qiling Township and Jiufeng Town regions of Pinghe County, near Mount Dacenshan, the highest mountain in southern Fujian with an elevation of 1,544 meters. Snowfall is a rare sight in southern Fujian, except in Pinghe, where even rime ice can be seen on the summit of Mount Dacenshan during snowfall. Pinghe County not only produces tea but also extensively cultivates Guanxi honey pomelo trees. The tea gardens are situated at the top of the mountains (with an average elevation above 800 meters), while the pomelo trees grow on the slopes. As a result, the tea gardens experience fewer pest issues and do not require pesticide use. Additionally, this arrangement imbues the tea liquor with the subtle fragrance of pomelo.
During the Qing Dynasty's Qianlong period, tea farmers in Pengxi began a history of planting, processing, and selling tea. In 1981, Mr. He Jineng, a tea farmer from Pengxi Village, Qiling Township, Pinghe County, discovered several old tea plants that grew differently from others, with lush new growth and prominent white downy tips. He promptly picked an appropriate amount of fresh leaves for trial processing, which resulted in high-quality tea. After years of large-scale trial planting and observation, the Pinghe County Tea Guidance Station determined that Baiya Qilan had excellent overall indicators. Consequently, the propagation and cultivation of Baiya Qilan seedlings gradually expanded over a large area after 1989. To protect the precious mother trees of Baiya Qilan tea, they were transplanted to the Pinghe County Yangshan Tea Factory established by Mr. He Jineng in 1993, making it easier to care for and manage them, ensuring their protection and legacy.
The Ministry of Agriculture has described Baiya Qilan as follows: firm and uniform in appearance, dark green and lustrous, with an orange-yellow infusion, a clear and lofty aroma, a refreshing and delicate taste, and a leaf base displaying a harmonious blend of red and green, making it a high-quality product within the category of green tea.
Due to its high total catechin content of up to 12%, it is recommended to brew Baiya Qilan with water at 85°C, avoiding prolonged steeping to prevent bitterness and to preserve the sweetness of the infusion.
For the fresh fragrance type of Baiya Qilan, it is suggested to store it sealed in a refrigerator. For the rich fragrance type of Baiya Qilan, although refrigeration is not necessary, it should still be kept away from light and stored in a cool place when properly sealed.
Currently, Baiya Qilan is still relatively niche, with low premium pricing and high value for money, making it a fine tea worth savoring.