White tea, with its unique flavor and a production process that is simple yet intricate, stands out in the world of tea. In the making of white tea, the critical step of withering greatly preserves the original flavor and rich internal components of the leaves, contributing to the distinctive quality of white tea.
According to “The Comprehensive Dictionary of Chinese Teas,” “Fresh leaves are spread out on specific equipment in a particular environment, which promotes the evaporation of moisture, reduces volume, softens the leaf texture, enhances enzyme activity, triggers changes in internal components, and facilitates the formation of tea quality. Key factors include temperature, humidity, ventilation, and time, with the essence being precise control over moisture loss and chemical transformations.” However, many tea enthusiasts have deep misunderstandings about the withering process of white tea, believing it to be merely sun-drying without any technical merit. In reality, the withering process of white tea is far more complex.
Firstly, let's discuss the thickness of the spread-out fresh leaves. Freshly picked white tea leaves need to be quickly and evenly spread out on bamboo trays, baskets, or similar utensils, forming a thin layer. This step is crucial; if not done properly, such as leaving the fresh leaves piled up for a long time in a basket or bag, it can lead to poor air circulation, the leaves becoming crushed and overheated, causing them to heat up and turn red, severely impacting the quality of the tea. The purpose of spreading out the leaves is to ensure they lose moisture evenly during withering while maintaining good air circulation, effectively avoiding fermentation and preventing the appearance of red stems and edges.
During this process, experienced tea makers use their keen observation skills and rich experience to adjust the thickness of the spread-out leaves based on the moisture loss, leaf condition, and color changes. They understand that only through such precise adjustments can the substances within the leaves transform fully, laying the foundation for the unique flavor of white tea.
Temperature and humidity play a crucial role in the withering process of white tea, serving as essential conditions for biochemical reactions and key environmental factors determining the withering outcome. During withering, tea makers must remain vigilant, closely monitoring even subtle changes in temperature and humidity.
If the moisture loss is too rapid or too slow, it will affect the quality of white tea to varying degrees. When the temperature is too high and humidity is high, the moisture loss from the leaves accelerates, leading to a rapid breakdown of chlorophyll and an increase in dark red components, causing the tea to appear dark brown to black-brown, severely impacting both the appearance and quality of white tea. If the temperature is too low and humidity is high, the moisture loss is slow, resulting in a darker color lacking the freshness and brightness characteristic of white tea. Therefore, there is a saying in tea regions that “hot weather turns it red, cold weather turns it black,” vividly summarizing the significant impact of temperature and humidity on the withering of white tea.
Air plays a crucial role in heat and moisture exchange during the withering of white tea. The direction, volume, and speed of airflow vary, affecting the ability to supply heat, carry water, remove moisture, provide humidity, and supply oxygen. Good air circulation can accelerate moisture evaporation during withering, prevent the accumulation of harmful gases like carbon dioxide, and continuously supply oxygen for biochemical changes during withering.
Different stages of withering have different requirements for air circulation. In the early stages of withering, to ensure smooth airflow between layers of leaves and enable the moisture from the fresh leaves to evaporate smoothly into the air, the leaves must be spread out evenly and thinly. Uneven distribution or thick spreading can adversely affect the flavor of white tea. In later stages of withering, to avoid excessive moisture loss and promote the transformation and accumulation of internal components, the thickness of the spread-out leaves and air circulation can be adjusted appropriately to effectively prevent uneven withering.
The withering time of white tea is closely related to the tenderness of the fresh leaves, climate, season, and other factors, typically ranging from 36 to 72 hours. Under given temperature and humidity conditions, the duration of withering directly impacts the formation of white tea quality. If the withering time is too short, oxidation is insufficient, and the content of polyphenols is high, resulting in a bitter taste in the tea. Conversely, if the withering time is too long, the primary biochemical components are excessively consumed, leading to a bland taste, which is also detrimental to the formation of quality.
The duration of withering is intricately linked to the tenderness of the fresh leaves, climate, and season. Regarding climate, during hot and humid weather (southerly winds), the withering time is relatively longer; whereas during cool and clear weather (northerly winds), the withering time is shorter. From the perspective of tenderness and season, spring tea has higher tenderness, thicker leaves, and higher water content, so the withering time is longer; autumn tea has lower tenderness, thinner leaves, and lower water content, allowing for a relatively shorter withering period. The proverb “make tea according to the weather and make tea according to the tea” vividly and accurately describes the tea-making process of Fuding white tea. Although sunlight withering appears simple, it contains profound skill and wisdom, being the key to the unique flavor of Fuding white tea.
In summary, the seemingly simple word “withering” is closely connected to numerous factors, making proper regulation no easy task. Each step tests the experience, skill, and patience of the tea maker. Producing a high-quality cup of white tea is no small feat, embodying the dedication and wisdom of the tea maker.
The production process of white tea is a testament to respect for nature, the inheritance of tradition, and the persistence of craftsmanship. Within this seemingly ordinary withering process lies the wisdom of Chinese tea makers, who neither stir nor knead the leaves, and their relentless pursuit of tea quality. The journey of tea is long and endless. To produce and appreciate tea well, we must continually explore and understand this unique Chinese wisdom and the essence of the withering process.
May every cup of white tea allow us to savor the bounty of nature, feel the dedication of the tea maker, and experience the depth and richness of Chinese tea culture. Let us cherish our love and respect for white tea and continue our pursuit of tranquility and beauty in the world of tea.